Handled with care, all the way.

Routine: Dust with a clean, soft, dry cloth. Keep the piece away from strong heat and prolonged direct sunlight.

Aniline leather: This absorbent leather can darken from moisture. Blot spills immediately without rubbing and seek specialist advice before applying any cleaner or conditioner.

Semi-aniline or protected leather: Wipe lightly with a barely damp, soft cloth, then dry. Use a suitable uncoloured leather care product only after discreet testing and only when the leather needs it.

Unknown finish: Treat it as absorbent aniline leather until the finish is confirmed. Do not use household sprays, solvents, saddle soap, oils or silicone products.

Professional help: Deep stains, cracking, colour loss, sticky surfaces or valuable original leather should be assessed by a leather specialist.

Routine: Vacuum gently with a clean upholstery nozzle at low suction. Rotate loose cushions where construction allows.

Spills: Blot from the outside toward the centre with a clean, absorbent white cloth. Do not rub, soak the padding or use heat to dry.

Avoid: Universal stain removers, bleach, aggressive brushing, steam cleaning and removable-cover washing unless the product-specific care label explicitly permits them.

Professional help: Large stains, unknown vintage fabrics, fixed covers and delicate fillings are best handled by a professional upholstery cleaner.

Routine: Vacuum gently and remove surface lint with a soft textile brush. Wool naturally resists everyday soiling, so avoid unnecessary wet cleaning.

Spills: Blot promptly. Use cool water sparingly only after testing; excessive moisture and friction can felt or distort the fibres.

Avoid: Hot water, bleach, alkaline cleaners, hard scrubbing and direct heat. Arrange professional cleaning for persistent stains.

Routine: Vacuum at low suction and protect from prolonged direct sunlight, which can fade natural fibres.

Spills: Blot quickly with a clean white cloth. Use very little cool water after testing because rings, shrinkage and dye movement can occur.

Avoid: Machine washing, steam cleaning or removing covers unless an attached care label specifically confirms that method. Use a textile professional for broad staining.

Routine: Dust with a soft dry cloth. For light cleaning, use a well-wrung damp cloth and dry immediately, following the grain.

Spills: Blot at once, especially around veneer edges and joints. Use coasters and trivets and keep the piece away from standing water and concentrated heat.

Avoid: Soaking, steam, abrasive pads and silicone furniture sprays. Veneer is a thin layer of real wood: do not sand or aggressively polish it.

Professional help: Lifting veneer, loose joints, water marks, deep scratches and structural movement need specialist assessment.

Routine: Dust regularly and wipe only with a well-wrung cloth, then dry. Clean spills promptly.

Maintenance: Re-oil only when the surface looks dry, pale or absorbs moisture unevenly—not to a fixed calendar. Confirm the existing finish first, use a compatible clear furniture oil and test discreetly.

Avoid: Applying oil over lacquer, wax or an unknown finish. Excess oil can remain sticky and attract dirt; remove surplus exactly as directed by the product manufacturer. Ask a professional when the finish is uncertain.

Routine: Dust softly and keep moisture to a minimum. Buff lightly with a clean soft cloth if the surface becomes dull.

Maintenance: Apply a very thin layer of compatible furniture wax only when the surface needs renewal, then buff after the stated curing time.

Avoid: Silicone polish, aerosol sprays, heavy wax build-up and water. Solvents can remove an old wax finish; consult a conservator for valuable or uncertain surfaces.

Routine: Dust with a soft cloth. Wipe marks with a well-wrung cloth and dry immediately.

Spills: Remove promptly without scrubbing. Protect the surface from hot, wet, rubber or plastic objects that may mark or react with older finishes.

Avoid: Abrasives, strong degreasers, alcohol, solvents and furniture oil. Do not polish flaking or cracked paint; loose historic finish should be stabilised professionally.

Routine: Dust with a soft cloth. Wipe fingerprints with a lightly damp cloth and dry immediately. Follow the grain on brushed stainless steel.

Spills: Remove moisture promptly around joints, chips and exposed steel.

Avoid: Steel wool, abrasive powders, chlorine products and prolonged moisture. Do not aggressively polish thin or worn vintage chrome; pitting and rust may require a metal specialist.

Routine: Dust with a soft dry cloth and handle with clean hands. Natural darkening can be an intentional part of the vintage surface.

Before polishing: Determine whether the metal is solid, plated, lacquered or deliberately patinated. Test any compatible, non-abrasive method discreetly.

Avoid: Acidic household mixtures, abrasives and automatic polishing. These can remove lacquer, plating or original patina. Ask a specialist before changing an aged finish.

Routine: Dust with a clean microfibre cloth. Apply a small amount of mild cleaner to the cloth—not directly to the object—and dry without leaving moisture at edges or seams.

Avoid: Abrasive pads, thermal shock and allowing liquid behind mirror edges, where it can damage old silvering. Chips, cracks, loose tops and heavy glass should be handled by a glass professional.

Routine: Dust with a soft cloth. Clean with a well-wrung cloth and a small amount of mild, neutral soap, then wipe again with clean water and dry.

Avoid: Alcohol, acetone, solvents, ammonia, abrasives and strong household sprays. These can haze acrylic, soften plastics or damage gelcoat. Limit prolonged direct sunlight and heat.

Professional help: Cracks, chalking, sticky surfaces, exposed fibreglass or yellowed clear acrylic require material-specific assessment rather than aggressive polishing.

Routine: Remove dust with a soft brush or low-suction vacuum using a brush attachment. Wipe lightly with a barely damp cloth and allow to dry naturally with good airflow.

Avoid: Soaking, steam, direct heat, heavy loads on loose weaving and oil unless the exact finish is known. Broken strands, sagging seats or loose frames should be repaired by a cane or rattan specialist.

Routine: Dust and wipe with a soft cloth, clean water and, when needed, a small amount of pH-neutral stone-suitable cleaner. Dry promptly.

Spills: Blot immediately, especially wine, coffee, oil and acidic liquids.

Avoid: Vinegar, lemon, acidic bathroom cleaners, bleach, abrasives and placing very hot objects directly on the stone. Etching, deep stains, cracks and re-sealing should be assessed by a stone professional.

Routine: Dust with a soft brush or cloth. Wipe sound glazed surfaces with a lightly damp cloth and dry.

Avoid: Soaking unglazed, cracked, crazed or repaired ceramics; liquid can enter porous areas and old repairs. Do not use a dishwasher or abrasive cleaner unless the maker's guidance explicitly allows it.

Professional help: Flaking glaze, unstable repairs and valuable ceramics should be handled by a ceramics conservator.

Before cleaning: Switch the lamp off, unplug it and allow it to cool completely. Dust accessible surfaces with a soft dry cloth, supporting delicate shades and components.

Avoid: Spraying cleaner onto a lamp, allowing moisture near sockets, wiring or switches, and attempting electrical repairs yourself.

Vintage lamps are tested to confirm that they function. Unless otherwise stated, they are generally sold with their original electrical components. Renewed or modified electrics are noted in the product information. A qualified electrician should handle installation, faults and local electrical requirements.